Tag Archives: Baltimore

New Dog Introductions

Selecting an appropriate new dog to bring home, as well as selecting new playmates for dogs in your household always requires introducing the dogs. There are a few points to remember to ensure that all new greetings are as successful as they can be. A few general rules to keep in mind are: 1. Male-Female pairs tend to do better long term; 2. Adult dogs that get along initially will typically continue to do so; and 3. Walking the dogs together before greeting can greatly improve chances for appropriate greetings, especially with dogs that are selective.

Male-Female pairs are best because there will be less competition between the dogs. In a pack, there is always an alpha male and an alpha female. (Of course, in your pack at home, you should be the dominant leader, although that’s another topic all together!) Keeping opposite sex pairings can reduce dominance scuffles, which can be intense. In multi-dog households or playgroups, it’s best to determine who the top dogs are, and keep a watchful eye to be sure that other dogs do not challenge this role.

Contrary to the popular myth, adult dogs are better new additions! Getting a puppy to have it “grow up” with the other dog or with the family greatly increases the risk that the puppy will challenge an adult dog as he/she matures. If you select a new addition to your household as an adult and your current dog is receptive from the initial greeting, chances are that the roles will not be challenged in the future because both dogs are mentally mature. Mental maturity in most dogs happens between the ages of 2-4 years, which often depends on the breed and the individual dog.

Now . . .you think you have found the perfect match. It’s time to introduce the dogs! Start on neutral territory, and do not allow the dogs to greet right away. Take the dogs on a long walk side-by-side to start. The longer the walk the better, as greetings will be less intense if the dogs have burned some energy. As you’re walking, take turns having one dog walk in front and the other behind. This will give both you and the dogs the opportunity to watch behaviors. Plus, it will give the dogs an opportunity to pick up on the other dogs scent.

Once the walk is over, as the handler, you must make the decision if it’s the right time to let the dogs greet. Happy, but relaxed, posture is key. Do not allow the dogs to greet head-on; this can present a challenge to some dogs. Head-to-tail, or a sideways greeting is better, as this allows the dogs to learn each others scent. With loose leashes, allow the dogs to approach naturally; you should notice one or both dogs veering slightly to one side, with bodies curved. If the dogs are pulling toward each other with tight leashes, more walking may be needed.

Some dogs are able to meet with new dogs quickly and easily, while other dogs may need more time to get used to a new household or playgroup addition. This depends greatly on the individual dog, with breed and gender playing a role in this as well. Always know your dog and his/her reactions, anticipate responses, and watch behaviors for the best new intros.

Have safe introductions, and enjoy your new addition!

Why you should love. . .your LEASH!

 

Most people know an individual that has owned a dog that was hit by a car. Maybe your own dog has been hit by a car in the past. Some of you may know that I sit on the vicious dog hearing board, in the city. It only takes one incident (often an accident) for a dog to wind up on the wrong side of the table at these hearings, and ALL of these dogs are somebody’s pet. In all of the above examples, a leash can prevent tragedy.
Even when your dog is nice, friendly, and under control, if you are in a public area, a leash is appropriate. Some people don’t care for dogs, unfortunately. Additionally, some dogs do not care to meet new dogs. With a dog that’s loose in an undesignated area, others rights may be inadvertently impeded upon.

So, you need to get your dog out to RUN, and you want your dog to run free. . .because he needs it! Where do you go? If your dog is social with other dogs, you can visit any variety of our local dog parks. There’s a list of them, below. If your dog is more socially selective, it may be best to find a friend with a private field that is willing to let you use it. Have fun, and play safe!

Local dog parks:

Baltimore City-
Canton Dog Park
Clinton and Toone Streets

Locust Point Dog Park
Andre St.

Baltimore County-
B.A.R.C. Park
Located at Hannah Moore

Harford County-
Ma & Pa Dog Park
N. Tollgate Rd.

Rebel’s Dog Park
2208 Connolly Rd.

 

Separation Anxiety: Causes and Solutions

I am often asked about problems with separation anxiety, and it seems to be a problem that more owners are noticing in thier dog lately. I think, now that this problem has a name, we are quick to jump on the idea that our dog may suffer from it. So- what exactly IS separation anxiety?

Separation anxiety is when a dog has a negative reaction to being left alone. These reactions may range from light stress (drooling, urinating) to full-blown destructive behaviors (chewing through walls and doors). This typically will manifest shortly after being left; dogs that exhibit negative behaviors when left for longer periods are often demonstrating boredom, or attention-seeking behavior.

Finding a solution to this problem lies in knowing the cause. It has been my experience that dogs with separation anxiety are anxious overall, at any given time, not only when left alone. What can you do when you are available to reduce your dog’s anxiety levels? Exercise is always #1 with most behavioral problems. Social and enrichment activities can also produce positive benefits for anxious dogs. These may include activities such as walks in new locations, visiting the dog park, interactive games, and even the use of food toys. Anything that is mentally and physically stimulating can reduce stress and anxiety! Further, supplements added to the diet such as flower essences and turkey can also produce a calming effect. Flower essences can also be purchased as plug-in scented oils, as well as infused collars for additional benefit- lavender and chamomile are recommended.

Now, what to do when you leave. . .IGNORE YOUR DOG!!! Do not give any goodbyes when you leave, or hellos when you arrive, for that matter. Follow the “don’t look, don’t touch, don’t talk” rule. For severe cases, changing your routine when you leave can help- if you grab your keys and then your coat, and then your wallet, change the order. If not already doing so, crating your dog can help protect your home as well as the safety of your pet. Crates are often a place of sanctuary for dogs, although in some dogs, crates also induce stress. A decision may have to be made in regard to the severity of the problem and the safety of your dog when you are not home. For dogs that are known escape artists, there are additional solutions as well.

Overall, your goal is to reduce the amount of anxiety your dog experiences on a regular basis. It is my personal opinion to stay away from behavior modifying drugs in these cases, as they can have severe adverse effects. For specific questions regarding your dog, please contact Aja, at: aja@muttmagic.com

Esco’s last hoorah?

I received a call on Thursday afternoon, the day before the WPBTCA National Championship was supposed to start. It’s a Friday-Sunday event, and I had been looking forward to it for a while- catching up with old friends, people involved in dog sports, meeting new people. The phone call was from the club’s president, stating that the Championship may be cancelled. Why? Because the flight with our main “open” competitor would not allow her dog. It was scheduled in advance, they knew the size of the dog and crate, but now, before boarding the plane, she was notified that her dog was “too big”. The only other flight out of her area was going to cost well over $1000 at this point, too.

Wow.

So, what now? I don’t think we can cancell- we have other people coming from out of town. Sure, we can inform the people that we know are coming, but we can’t possibly tell everybody. Setting up a weekend seminar is a possability. . .or. . .well, I was asked to promise to never make our club president watch my dog track again. Turns out he was willing to overlook it so that we could have some dogs show at the event. SO. . .without much in the form of preparation (we track and do obedience weekly), my 10-year-old retired dog is dusted off and entered. We have a couple other locals that are able to do the same. The show will go on!

Aja and Esco: High Tracking, High Obedience, High Protection. . . High in Trial!

Aja and Esco: High Tracking, High Obedience, High Protection. . . High in Trial!

Turns out Esco wasn’t too shabby. It was probably his best tracking and obedience performance I’ve seen in a while, and although we had a few control problems during protection (we hadn’t trained in over a year) he still gave us enough to earn another title, AWD3. Good boy! I can thank K-9 Kraving for his good health and agility at this age. Who else knows a 10-year-old dog that can jump a 1-meter jump without touching and scale a 6-foot wall with ease??! We were certainly thankful for a good showing and accomplishments for the weekend, even though we hadn’t planned an entry.

So, what happened to our competitor? She routed us on from California, and has decided to boycott Southwest! I would too, after that. As a matter of fact, I will.

Now, we didn’t enter in the events to qualify for the National Champion title this year. (As some of you may know, Esco was the WPBTCA National Champion for 2009.) He definitely didn’t have the juice for ALL that would have been required for that. Okye and Torque take the title for 2010. New competitors Noelle and Diesel take the Novice Champion title, and Will and Action take the Novice Vice Champion title. What a great showing! It was a pleasure to see everybody’s dogs in action. To view pictures of the event, please visit the club’s Facebook album, here: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=281211&l=714ed62c8c&id=285509266881

Next year’s Championship should be in California. If you couldn’t make it this year, hopefully we’ll see you there!

Is it too soon?

When is too soon to start a raw diet? Puppies can start to eat a raw diet as soon as they are weaned from thier mother. The natural enzymes present in raw meat help with digestion, and most will notice a smooth transition from mother’s milk to a balanced raw diet.

Caddy and Buda share a duck neck
Caddy and Buda share a duck neck
     Caddy and Buda are two foster pups that have been with me for approximately three weeks; since they were six weeks of age. They are now 9-weeks old, and enjoy raw snacks from time to time. Were they both mine, I would have them on a 100% raw diet. They are currently provided with kibble from the rescue that they belong to, which is more cost-effective for thier situation.
     Raw fed dogs typically have smaller, firmer stools, healthier coats, and overall better longevity and health than kibble fed dogs. Thier immune systems tend to be stronger, and food related allergies are minimized. My dogs have eaten a raw diet for the past 6 years now, with a preference for our local brand, USDA certified, K-9 Kraving. It is completely balanced, making feeding raw easy. My oldest, Esco, is currently 10 years old, and was the 2009 WPBTCA National Champion at 9 years of age. He is still running strong!
     In addition to the health benefits, raw diet dog foods do not suffer from recalls like many commercial kibbles. Being USDA certified, K-9 Kraving is all human grade food. They offer a full line of food, with seven different flavors, and can process special orders in most cases. They also offer a full treat line of all natural nutritionally enhanced treats that may be raw, smoked, or cooked.
     Have questions or are interested in feeding raw for the first time? Email Aja at aja@muttmagic.com for details!

The benefits of mature dogs. . .

Esco teaches the pups to relax

Esco teaches the pups to relax

As most of you know, I took in three foster pups for Mid Atlantic Bully Buddies a few weeks ago. The little boy, Dojo, wasn’t eating well, and after a short stay at the vet, is now being fostered at the vet tech’s home. Irresistable little boy! We were also notified that one of the other puppies from the litter was having some socialization troubles. Basically, she was terrorizing the other dogs/puppies! We traded the more docile of the pups for the little terror. . .Buda. That brings me to the point- older dogs with proper social behavior can really be puppy saviors!

Grandpa Esco teaches Buda how to behave!

Grandpa Esco teaches Buda how to behave!

When Buda came in, we first let all of the puppies play with Red, another puppy that is 10 months old. Buda immediately attached to his side, sunk her teeth in, shook with all her puppy might, and refused to let go! Red was patient with her- having a high pain tolerance and being a playful puppy, he didn’t take it personally. Unfortunately, he treated her like a little play toy, and this didn’t do much for her anti-social behaviors. It was time for Grandpa Esco. At 10-years-old, Esco is not tolerant of improper puppy behaviors. He would prefer to be left alone! Thankfully, he has a firm but gentle dog way of telling the pups to back off. . .as only a mature dog can do. Buda is still learning, and is doing much better in the social department.

Caddy and Buda playing

Caddy and Buda playing

It is very important for puppies to learn proper dog social behaviors at a young age. Being with littermates and appropriate older dogs can provide benefits that will last a lifetime. It is a good idea to provide puppies with play dates, and puppy classes, to learn these behaviors while they’re young. Save places like the dog park and pet stores for when your dog is older. While appropriate for some adult dogs, these are uncontrolled environments and can introduce both bad behavior and disease before your puppy is mentally or physically ready. If you’re considering a puppy, find a friend with an older dog that can show your pup the ropes!

Buda at 8-weeks
Buda at 8-weeks

These pups are being fostered through Mid Atlantic Bully Buddies. You may visit them online at: http://www.midatlanticbullybuddies.org

Caddy at 8-weeks
Caddy at 8-weeks

 

We have VIDEO!

Big thanks to Amber, for being videographer for the day!

We will now be creating training videos to share from time to time. Our first attempt is of our group class orientation. In the past, some of you may have missed orientation day, and therefore missed a very important obedience demo! In the future, this is now available online.

CGC Obedience Demo

Enjoy, and please feel free to comment!

You breed. Do you also help rescue?

As a trainer, I work with dogs that come from all places- both reputable and backyard breeders, rescues, shelters, strays, and more. I take them all, work with them all, and love them all. I accept the dogs and the owners for who they are. Working with many rescues, I encounter a lot of individuals who have very strong feelings against breeding dogs. They would prefer to be out of business, having no more homeless animals to save. Of course breeders feel justified in their actions and beliefs as well- this goes for both reputable and backyard breeders, as often the backyard breeders don’t know who they are, unfortunately. As we all know: everybody’s dog is the best dog in the world!

My question to all of you is this: Is there a middle ground?

L-R: Reese, Dojo, and Caddy. . .and in the back is Star. All rescues.

L-R: Reese, Dojo, and Caddy. . .and in the back is Star. All rescues. Puppies are available for adoption through Mid Atlantic Bully Buddies.

As a working dog person, I prefer a purebred and intact dog to work with. I have never bred my dogs, and I don’t intend to. However, when I work a dog in the sport that I choose (Schutzhund), I prefer the uninterrupted drives of an intact dog that is specifically bred for a purpose. I also prefer the muscle development of intact dogs for such an athletic sport. Yes, I’ve successfully competed with spayed/neutered rescue dogs as well. It’s my preference, and I do see a difference. I also participate in rescue. Although I only contribute to the population by adding occasional demand, I find it both important and rewarding to assist in rescue efforts. Personally,  I believe that anybody who adds to the population in any way- whether that be breeding or seeking a purebred dog, should assist in rescue as well. It really is important to see both sides!

Now, this doesn’t mean that a typical family that purchases a purebred dog for the children needs to go out and adopt a rescue as well. Anybody can help, and there are a number of ways. Volunteering at a rescue or shelter can be a great help to them, and very rewarding to you. Donations are always welcomed, too- money, bedding, collars and leashes are all helpful. Of course, if you do feel compelled to take in a rescued life, foster and forever homes are always needed!

Take time today to consider what you can do to help your local animals in need. A few local all-breed shelters are:

Maryland SPCA

BARCS

Baltimore Humane

Humane Society of Harford County

The puppies in the picture above are available for adoption once they have been fully vetted and spayed/neutered. Please contact Mid Atlantic Bully Buddies for details: MABB

What to do?

So, we’ve tried some different experiments for the Blog, and are trying to come up with some functional and interactive uses for it. Having pages for each group course to post questions wasn’t as sucessful as we originally had hoped. It was a good idea, though. We’ll probably add a FAQ in place of this soon.

Right now we’re coming up with some ideas for video demos that can be posted here. If you have any ideas, please share! We’ll be starting with a video of our orientation demo. This way, students who happen to miss group class orientation can still see the obedience demo before attending a first class with dogs.

Fear-aggression, anxiety, and other doggie problems. . .

Leadership is the answer!

Most dogs do not want to be aggressive or defensive. They are much more happy and content with having structure, and a clear submissive role in the family. What happens when this role is not clear in your dog’s mind? Any number of things could go wrong, and this is the leading cause for fear-aggression and anxiety. There are several things that you can start, which will help to re-establish you as the leader in your home. This will allow your dog to let his guard down, and RELAX!

Begin with a “Nothing in Life is Free” routine (NILF). This means all food, treats, toys, and affection, MUST be earned. Free-feeding is out of the question, and the dog must sit and wait for food, being released to eat. Treats should be given sparingly. Treats must be well-timed, and for something special- like a long down-stay under distraction, etc. Toys are allowed, and interactive toys are preferable- something that you can play with your dog (ball, tug, etc.). These should also be earned, and should be picked up at all other times. Even your affection should be earned- do not pet your dog when he demands attention. Rather, ignore this behavior, and give affection for appropriate, calm, submissive behavior. Last. . .if your dog is allowed on the furniture, STOP! Normally, dogs on the furniture is not the end of the world, when they’re invited, but when there is leadership confusion present, this is absolutely a no-go.

So, let’s say you’re consistently doing all of the above. Your dog is calm, more confident, and submissive. Hopefully this has resolved any problem behaviors that may have occured in the past. If not, it is VERY important to consult with a professional, as the behavior may have progressed into something habitual, and will need some training. All hope is not lost, and your dog can be rehabilitated, it may simply need some more intense work. Aja Harris, with Mutt Magic, has extensive experience with this, and can help you and your dog regain the relationship you’re meant to have.